BYPASS & BITS

Not so much done this month as I've been on holiday.
While I'm waiting for the boiler, I thought I'd best finish the pump system as far as possible, as I might not have access after the boiler has been fitted. I've made the ball valves on the pump. It is always of some concern that they will work as there is no means of testing them. If one doesn't, then the water will simply go backwards and forwards in the pipe. At the moment, it doesn't look as if the ball valves can be reached when the boiler is in place, but I'll have to wait and see. pump lever system I usually try to make the return water visible through the filler hole, but as this is at the front of the engine, it's not possible. So to check that the pumps are working, I'll fit a plug in the pipe to the boiler and then I will be able to remove this, run a short distance and see if the water squirts out and if OK, return the plug.
I bought a commercial tap from the local plumber which was for 8mm pipe work. The unit is much better than anything I could make carrying the full diameter of the pipe (8mm) and turn off to on in 90 degrees. There was a fairly stiff load on the short handle, but since this had to be replaced anyway, it didn't matter. pump lever Using solid rods would have meant all kinds of cranks, so I elected for the 'wire in a tube' type; the wire being 1/16" stainless. The complete system is neat and simple. The tap was chrome plated brass most of which was easily removed and no longer looks out of place. I shall use a similar tap as the regulator when the time comes but make it a stainless steel one. pump lever The lever end fits through a slot in the footplate. I had to fit a stop so that the tube remained still for the wire to move inside. There is a certain amount of vertical movement in the tube end as the lever goes through its range of movement, so to allow for that, I cut a slotted recess in the stop and drilled a 1/8" hole for the wire. This appears to cover the movement reasonably well. Now that it's assembled, I think the lever could have been a little longer.

I'm having to do smaller jobs on the loco while I wait for the boiler to be done. So I made a start by making the filler cap for the water tank between frames. Quite a pleasant job turning brass and easily finished in a day. I only had 1/16 copper rivets to hand, so I used them but they ought to be a size larger really. filler cap base filler cap finished I milled the hinge plate from solid rather than bend a piece of flat sheet to shape. Much neater. The bolt passes through one side and screws into the other, which stops the need for a nut on the end. I could have made up a pin or even a rivet, but I like things to come to pieces. It's finished in primer and cellulose black, but I left the cap semi-polished and it's recessed to fit over the rim. As this is the top of the water tank, I made the base from the same zinc plated steel to delay any rusting.

I thought I'd make a start on the side tanks, but couldn't decide on the proportions as I want to extend them. I tried making a mock-up in card but abandoned the idea as I need the boiler present to get the height right. So it looks like I'm more or less stuck now until the boiler comes and that might be weeks away. So I'll leave it there for this month.

19th JUNE 2003



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